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Can I wear a helmet liner with my uniform?
As for the helmet liner use with the Class A, in period photos you'll note guys in garrison dress (Class A's with cartridge belt and leggings) wear the liner of the steel pot without the pot. The opening training scene in BoB at Toccoa shows all the Easy recruits wearing OD HBT coveralls, low service boots and helmet liners!
What are the different types of hat piping for the overseas cap?
The Orange and white piping confused me bacause it was not a solid color. The reason it is striped according to the Militaria expert is that your combat support elements during the war had striped piping and the Combat arms branches (ie, armor, infantry, and artillery) had solid colors. The black piping was for the chaplin corps. One of my sources claims an orange and black piping as Tank Destoryer, but there is a red and blue that is Adjutant General's Department. In which case an old origanal could be faded and discoloured to look orange. This same source says that orange and white is Signal Corps and the orange and white piping was... the signal corps. My uncle was a bazooka guy with HQ/506 and every picture I have ever seen of him in uniform shows him wearing an infantry piped garrison cap. There were airborne artillery units that had red piping and a red glider or parachute patch though. The "Tank Destroyer" units were not bazooka teams. They were armored units that used a tank destroyer instead of tanks. A tank destroyer is an armored vehicle with light armor and a larger than average main gun and was meant to be used to screen the main force of tanks. The reason the armor was light was to give them speed so that they could hit and run. The bazooka men wore regular infantry uniforms and insignia as the bazook was considered a crew-served infantry weapon just like a machinegun or a mortar. I have seen a bazookaman sleeve patch meant to be worn on the lower left sleeve but I'm not entirely convinced that this was an issue item.
Whar is the difference between all the scabbards used in the war?
The M-4 bayonet-knife for the M-1 carbine would have been carried in a M-8 scabbard. The carbine bayonets didn't appear until VERY late in the war. The M-8 scabbards came out in mid-1944. They were replaced by the M-8A1 scabbards in mid-1945. The difference is the M-8A1 has a longer canvas we hanger and belt-hooks were provided. Also, later issue M-8A1's have a metal tip protector affixed due to the fiberglass scabbards tendancy to break off at the tip. M-8 scabbards were common among airborne forces during the Market Garden operation and thrugh the end of the war. Some were used in Normandy but they were not as common as the leather M-6 scabbards. The M-8 is much easier to maintain than the M-6.
What are the difference types of barrel bands on the M-1 Carbine?
Buying a early barrel band can be a bit pricey. Another alternative is to take an existing band with the bayonet lug and use a hacksaw to remove it. I did that with mine, it is easy. Also if you ever want the bayonet lug, buying one with the lug is quite a bit cheaper.It’s my understanding that the bayonet lug indicates the early models made a trip back to the arsenal for refitting. According to Jane’s, All M2 and M3 models came with the lug, as well as many M1 and M1A1 models. My understanding has always been that occurred in very late in the war. III barrel bands were a very late feature. According to Bruce Canfield only a very few late production carbines left the factory with Type III barrel bands (mostly from Inland and Winchester). A rounded bolt was something fitted to carbines post-war. It was developed for the M-2 to strengthen the bolt for full auto fire. Other features commonly changed on carbines during rebuild were the rear sight and the safety. Look up Canfield's book " U. S. Infantry Weapons Of World War II" for a wealth of info about the carbine and other US weapons. Only Inland made the M-1A1 "paratrooper" folding stock version of the carbine.
How can a carbine be blank adapted?
The trick with the carbine is to counter-bore the barrel before tapping it. The counter-bore will recess the treads enough that a live round won’t touch the threaded area. Check with your local gunsmith. I had to learn the hard way not to use the snap blank adapter on the M1 carbine. It will most definitely give you fits. My adapter would come loose to the point that it would not seal properly and down right dangerous. At one point it was loose enough to be shoot out as projectle had I not spotted it in time.
What is considered a correct period shelter half (pup tent)?
Here are some things to consider: 1. If the halves fasten together with buttons (NOT snaps), then it is appropriate for late WWII - 50s. The double-ended shelter half (the one with triangular extensions at each end) appeared in khaki by sometime in '43, I think. By late 44-45, the same item was being made in dark OD. 2. Poles for a WWII shelter half were three-section, either hinged or held together with pins and metal sleeves. By sometime in 1945, poles were being produced in single sections, with each soldier being issued three sections for his half of the shelter. I have no idea if the single section poles were painted or not. I've never seen a WWII three-section pole that was painted. Also by sometime in 1945, metal tent pins were being produced, although I don't yet know what they looked like. I've only seen a reference to FM 21-15, April 1945, referring to both pins and poles. 3. If you can see one patch on a tent section, you might want to open the package and look at the whole thing, if the dealer will let you do so. Never hurts to know what you're buying if you get the chance. 4. As a substitute, you might check Sportsman's Guide. They have some button-together Dutch shelter halves from the 1950s-60s that are reasonably close to a late WWII - Korea US model. I got one a couple months ago - came with painted aluminum single-section poles, two tarps, and metal pins - all for about $12 and in very decent shape. However, before going with the Dutch tent, better check with the 1st SGT or others about acceptability, since it's not USGI. I have paid around $15 each for my postwar (snaps instead of buttons like WWII) shelter halves. If it's serviceable (and a spray or two of Scotchguard never hurts) this is a good price. Be sure even if the rope loops around the edges aren't present that the loops are not torn through so you can add them. Be sure and get (or make) 12 WWII wooden tent pegs though. The modern steel/aluminum ones really don't fit a period look.
Should Glider troops wear the Glider Wings instead of Jump Wings?
Glider troops do wear glider wings and to my knowledge there were no glider wing back ovals. I will guess that is an airborne only thing and probably just another thing that fed the fire of animosity between the paratroopers and the glider-riders. I have never seen any documentation in any of my references.
What is a Standard ETO Class A Uniform?
Standard OD wool service uniform with either 4 Pocket or IKE style jacket PLUS wool garrison cap
Which rifle sling do I need on my M-1 Garand?
The 501st unit standard is the M1907 leather sling for 101st in Normandy.
Are the M7 Shoulder Holsters incorrect to be worn by Airborne troops or is it okay to wear either the M3 or M7?
The M-7 holsters didn't become widley issued until late 1944. Wearing one for a Normandy impression may not be totally accurate as far as strict authenticity is concerned. However, a brown GI shoulder holster is a brown GI shoulder holster as far as most of us are concerned. Besides, the M-7 is more comfortable to wear.